Spring Vegetable Gardening Tips

1. •  

     Spring vegetable gardening is easy when garden preparation is a year-round endeavor. By choosing the correct vegetables to grow and getting an early start, every spring gardener can harvest fresh, delicious cool season vegetables before the end of spring. Winter is the best time to prepare for spring gardening, according to garden expert P. Allen Smith.

   Keep Soil Healthy

   • Healthy soil is extremely important to spring vegetable gardening. Natural composts---such as those made from leaves---keep soil healthy, according to Ed Shortes of the University of California at Davis. Begin compost piles in late fall with autumn leaf litter. Cover the compost pile to keep moisture out if it begins to smell, as compost smell is an indication of excessive water. In early spring, uncover the compost layer and incorporate it into the upper 6 inches of soil to promote nutrient development and soil aggregation.

   Choose the Right Vegetables

   • Choices abound for spring vegetable gardens, reports P. Allen Smith. Lettuce, snow peas, arugula, beets, cabbage and kohlrabi are all cool season vegetables, and will satisfy most any discerning grower. Leftover seeds are not a problem, as several cool season vegetables can be grown through the fall months, too.

   Start Indoors

   • Most cool season vegetables are easily started indoors. Kale, cabbage and rape, for example, can be started indoors from seed six to eight weeks before your area's frost-free date. Seedlings sprouting under 12- or 24-hour light will have a nice head start in growth. Some cool season vegetables---for example, most root vegetables---are even able to survive outside for up to two weeks before your last frost date.

Read More

Planting Spring Gardens: Early Start

Read More

Early Spring Vegetable Gardening

 

Early spring combines the reality of getting back into the garden with cool season vegetables like peas, radishes and lettuce. These crops thrive in the cooler temperatures of early spring and even like having some frost that can go along with it.

1. Peas

   •  

     Whether you're planting garden peas, snow peas or snap peas, early spring is the right time to get these seeds in the ground. The time to plant is as early as possible depending on when the soil is loose enough to be worked. Soak pea seeds overnight to soften their hard exterior and aid germination.

   Radishes

   •  

     Radishes should be a part of your early spring garden. Like peas, radish seeds can be planted as soon as the soil can be worked and certainly not later than late March or early April. Since most varieties mature in just 20 to 30 days, you can do repeat plantings of seed every seven days or so. By late spring, radish plants bolt due to higher temperatures.

   Lettuce

   •  

     Lettuce is a mainstay in salads and can be planted in early spring for fresh leaves any time you want them. More than one variety may be planted at a time. Lettuce is heat sensitive and will bolt by early summer.

Read More

Annual Flower Fertilizer

Read More

The Best Fertilizers for Helping Blooms

1. • Fertilizers are a prime requirement of plants to help them grow vigorously. Fertilizers add the essential nutrients to the soil and come in either natural or synthetic form. All plants, flowering or non-flowering, have specific growth requirements such as the correct soil pH and adequate nutrients, which are best evaluated through soil tests. Nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are the major plant nutrients. Out of these, phosphorus is most important for the development of flowers.

   Monster Bloom Fertilizer

   • Monster Bloom is a fertilizer product of the Grotek company designed specifically to help grow vigorous blooms. The fertilizer contains the essential nutrients in the ratio of 0-50-30. The fertilizer helps plants to start producing the most flowers in the middle of the flowering season. Monster Bloom contains a very high level of phosphorus, which plays a critical role in plant metabolism. The potassium in the fertilizer supports the growth of flowers and fruits and leads to optimal photosynthesis and starch production. It is recommended to stop using Monster Bloom two weeks before the end of the flowering cycle.

   Tiger Bloom Fertilizer

   • Tiger Bloom is a high phosphorus fertilizer for helping to create prolific blooms and large sized buds. The fertilizer contains the essential nutrients in the ratio of 2-8-4. Beside the essential nutrients, Tiger Bloom also contains many trace minerals such as calcium, magnesium and manganese. The fertilizer promotes abundant fruit in fruit bearing plants as well. Apply to plants when flowers first start to appear and use all the way to final harvest and flowering stage. Tiger Bloom fertilizer is recommended for use for in soils and in hydroponic gardening.

   Happy Frog Fruit & Flower Fertilizer

   • Happy Frog Fruit & Flower Fertilizer is manufactured by the Fox Farm company. The fertilizer contains the essential nutrients in the ratio of 5-8-4. The high level of phosphorus in the fertilizer supports optimal fruit and flower growth in plants. The use of Happy Frog Fruit & Flower Fertilizer leads to the development of healthy root systems in the plants and vigorous branching. The fertilizer also contains humic acid and mycorrhizae. The recommended amount of fertilizer use is 1 tbsp. in every gallon of soil.

Read More

The Best Fertilizer for Asiatic Lilies

Lilies are ornamental plants, known by gardeners as low-maintenance, easy-to-grow, decorative flowers that add color and aesthetic quality to a garden or other landscaped area. Their low-maintenance reputation does not mean lilies thrive on neglect. A carefully designed fertilization schedule brings lilies to full health and vigor. Consider fertilizer choices in light of the exact type of lilies you are growing. Asiatic lilies, for example, respond well to a specifically designed fertilization schedule.

1. Asiatic Lilies

   • All lilies have a well-earned reputation as easy plants to grow, and Asiatic lilies are among the easiest of all lilies to grow. Along with the similar Oriental lilies, Asiatic lilies are hardy and are highly adaptable to a range of soil profiles, so long as the soil is well draining. Asiatic lilies usually grow to 2 to 5 feet tall at full maturity and bloom in a variety of colors, such as yellow, pink, deep pink, orange and cream. Asiatics are among the most commonly grown types of lilies by home gardeners.

   Fertilization for Lilies

   • Lilies tolerate many different soil types and its fertilization needs are often marginal. Have your soil tested by a local university extension office and add fertilizers as needed to supplement nutrients your soil lacks. In general, a once-per-season application of a phosphorus-rich fertilizer, such as 5--10--10 or similar formulation, applied in the spring improves lily growth. Slow-release fertilizers yield more consistent results than do quick-release formulations.

   Asiatics and Fertilization

   • The specific fertilization needs of Asiatic lilies do not differ from the general fertilization requirements for all lilies. Asiatics' well-known ability to adapt to many different soils could mean they require even less fertilization. So long as your soil is not critically deficient in important plant nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and others, you can grow Asiatic lilies with minimal fertilization. It is always a good idea to inquire a nursery or local university extension office about the fertilization needs of the specific species of Asiatic lilies that you purchase for cultivation.

   Other Considerations

   • Despite their hardiness and vigor, lilies are susceptible to problems associated with overfertilization. Gardeners sometimes mistakenly associate fertilizer with plant food and haphazardly add too much of it to their plants. Fertilizer is not plant food and should be used as sparingly as is possible. Always follow manufacturer's labeled application instructions to avoid harming your plants by overfertilization.

Read More

How to Best Fertilize Flowers

Read More

The Best Bloom Fertilizers

1. •  

     A garden full of blooming flowers is every gardener's delight. The variations in size, color and structure make it an interesting hobby and a pleasure to share with others. Getting your plants to bloom at their best is sometimes confusing, however. Too much nitrogen encourages leaf growth but not flower blooming. The right fertilizer can make a big difference in how well your flowers bloom.

   Phosphorus

   • In the N-P-K formula on bags of chemical fertilizer, N is nitrogen, P is phosphorus and K is potassium. Each of these ingredients has a particular job to perform for plant health. Nitrogen aids in leaf production and makes thick top growth. Potassium helps with root formation and the uptake of nutrients throughout the plant structures; it helps the most in flower blooming, so, when choosing a chemical fertilizer, ensure the phosphorus, or P-portion, is the highest number.

   Compost

   • Compost is organic matter whose decomposition is accelerated by heat and moisture. It is a brown, crumbly material that looks like soil. Compost is rich in nutrients for plants and works as a soil conditioner, providing microbes to enrich the soil and nutrients that feed your plants. According to Recycleworks.org, compost provides a balanced, slow-release source of nutrients that holds the compounds longer so the plants can use them. It also helps to retain moisture in the soil and is nontoxic to aquatic life if it runs off into nearby lakes and streams. You can make your own compost in a compost pile in your backyard or buy bagged compost at your local garden center or home improvement center.

   Manure

   • Using manure as fertilizer to increase blooms on flowering plants may seem like an old-fashioned way to do the job, but it is still one of the best natural fertilizers you can use. It does not contaminate the environment with chemicals, and it is rich in nitrogen and phosphorous to make plants grow. Poultry manure is high in potassium also. Do not use raw manure because of the danger of pathogens in the material. Compost manure in a pile with leaves, straw and other types of lawn waste. Water and air are added to encourage microbial growth and to keep the temperature high. It takes 6 to 9 months to compost manure, according to FineGardening.com.

   Bone Meal

   • Bone meal is another natural fertilizer used to increase blooming in flowering plants. Bone meal is made from the bones of fish and animals and is high in calcium and phosphorous to help plants bloom. It is mixed into the soil of flowers bulbs, rose bushes and other flowering plants, according to Hewitt's.com. Bone meal is an organic material that does not harm the environment.

Read More

The Best Fertilizers for Flowers

 

Flowers often bloom well in the beginning of the season, but may struggle during a second or third round of blossoming, due to diminished nutrient content of the soil. Fertilizers are the best choice for helping flowers create great blooms, but not all fertilizers are designed for use on flowering plants. Different flowers can also have different fertilizer requirements.

1. Potassium-Rich Blends

   • If you'd prefer more large, showy blooms on your flowering plants and less lanky stems and bushy leaves, the Gardening Advisor website recommends using plenty of potassium. While nitrogen is important for healthy leaf development, when soil nitrogen is higher than soil potassium, flowers have trouble blooming. Nitrogen should be added while the plant is still developing its stems and leaves, but once it is in the blooming cycle, a potassium-rich fertilizer will encourage it to continue producing new flowers.

   Water-Soluble Fertilizer

   • Most fertilizer blends come in a powdered form that is sprinkled over freshly turned soil. However, water-soluble liquid fertilizers make it easy to help freshly transplanted flowers thrive, says the University of Missouri Extension. Starter fertilizers have high levels of phosphorus so your growing flowers can produce healthy stems and leaves early in the growing process. Mixing the fertilizer with water helps you individually fertilize each plant, and offers exact control over the amount of each nutrient you add.

   Nitrogen Side Dressing

   • Although adding nitrogen at the wrong time can disrupt flowering, most annuals require an additional nitrogen side dressing at some point during the growing season, according to the University of Missouri Extension. Cold weather flowers that are planted early, such as pansies and tulips, grow best with an early dose of nitrogen as they first begin to bloom. Flowers that don't produce blooms until the end of spring or beginning of summer should receive a side dressing after their first round of flowers has died to help boost late-season growth. Avoid adding more nitrogen than potassium, or the plants may stop flowering altogether.

   Specialty Fertilizers

   • Some flowers have such specific nutrient requirements that special fertilizer blends are produced just for them. For example, roses bloom best when fertilized with mixtures featuring twice as much phosphorus as nitrogen or potassium, says the Roses And Everything About Them website. Too much nitrogen will force your rose bushes to focus on producing new leaves instead of new blooms. Other blends are available to address the specific needs of orchids, flowering cacti and other unusual flowers.

Read More

The Best Way to Fertilize Established Flower Beds

 

Even though your flower bed is growing and doing well, it still needs to be fertilized from time to time. Fertilizing will ensure that the plants continue to thrive by receiving all the nutrients they need. Fertilizing an already established flower bed is not as hard as it may seem. By taking the proper steps, your garden will be ready to be fed in no time.

1. Wait Until Spring

   • When fertilizing an already established flower bed, wait until spring. Many plants do not require fertilization during the cooler months of winter; some will even be harmed by it. Wait until all signs of freezing have passed. In spring plants are entering their growing season and the time they want extra nutrition.

   Clear the Area

   • Before applying fertilizer, get the flower bed in tip-top shape. Rake any existing mulch away from the base of the plants. This will assure that the fertilizer gets to the root systems and doesn't just sit on top of the mulch. If your mulch is still fresh and doesn't need replacing, you can rake it back over the bed once the fertilizer is applied. If the mulch is old, now is the best time to replace it with fresh. Once you get through, your flower bed will look like new.

   Prune and Divide

   • Sharpen your pruning shears, if you haven't done so since last fall. Cutting branches with a freshly sharpened blade will make a cleaner cut, which lessens the chance of disease entering through the wound. Trim away any dead branches from the plants. Shape up any bushes that need a trim. By trimming your flower bed now, you will not have to do maintenance as soon as the new mulch is laid and the fertilizer spread. Rake up and remove all the leaves, branches and other debris once the pruning is complete.
     Divide any plants that have grown too full for the bed. This will assure that the fertilizer reaches all the plants and will also give the flower bed a cleaner and tidier look. Replant the divided plants to another section of the garden, if you wish.

   Fertilizing

   • Assess the plants your have in the bed and determine their particular needs. If you have basically blooming plants, you will want to give the plants a high-quality fertilizer designed for flowers. Choose a fertilizer with a high middle number. This is the amount of phosphorus the fertilizer contains, which is what a flowering plant requires to bloom. You can also spread compost, manure or other organic matter around the base of the plants to fertilize them. Granular fertilizers will take longer to leach into the soil and reach the plant's root system than organic blend fertilizers. Water in the fertilizer well.
     Spray the flower bed once a month with a water-soluble fertilizer. These come in a range of blends, so be sure to pick one designed for the specifics of your garden. If you have mainly blooming plants, choose a water-soluble fertilizer specific for flowering plants.

Read More

The Best Fertilizer for Perennials

 

Perennial is defined as something that lasts for three or more seasons, as is the case for perennial flowers, which live for three years or more. Quick- and slow-release fertilizers can be used on perennial flowers, and they do not need much of it to thrive.

1. Chemicals

   • Fertilizers have labels that can be confusing for those who are not gardening savvy. Three numbers appear on the labels,each of which represents the amount of a specific chemical found in the fertilizer. The first number represents nitrogen, the second number phosphorus and the last number potassium. The nitrogen content of the fertilizer dictates if it is a slow- or quick-release type.

   Slow Release

   • Fertilizers marked as slow release allow the gardener to use lesser amounts over time and adjust the amounts as needed. This helps to prevent foliage burning or over fertilizing of perennials and other types of plants, as it releases nitrogen slowly over a longer period of time. The nitrogen is water soluble in such products, and is a more controlled release to the perennials.

   Quick Release

   • Quick-release fertilizers give a faster growth response than slow-release fertilizers because the nitrogen is released into the soil very quickly. Gardeners may choose not to use such products because of the risk of burning the foliage or because of overgrowth with no flowering. Quick-release fertilizers must be reapplied more frequently than slow-release because of the nitrogen being used up over a shorter period of time versus slow release.

Read More

The Best Fertilizer for Flower & Vegetable Gardens

1. •  

     Gardeners making an investment of time and money into flower or vegetable gardening want to ensure their garden's success. Fertilizer provides nutrients the plants need for vigorous growth. The first step is to analyze the soil to determine the pH level and fertility requirements. Then gardeners must consider the individual nutritional needs of each plant. The best fertilizers are chosen based on a soil test and the needs of the plants.

   Granular Fertilizer

   •  

     Once gardeners test and determine the pH level and fertility needs of the garden soil, they can plan the steps required to apply fertilizer throughout the growing season. If a soil test report returns advising "no basic application," botanists with the University of Missouri recommend skipping the first step of applying a maintenance fertilizer. However, if the report shows nutritional deficits in the soil, gardeners should apply a maintenance fertilizer before planting. This fertilizer application will replace missing nutrients and prepare the soil for new growth. A maintenance fertilizer is a granular mix that is often labeled with numbers such as 5-10-5, 12-12-12 or 6-24-24. The first number represents the nitrogen level, the second number is for phosphorus and the third number shows the potassium level. Choose a granular fertilizer based on the needs of the soil. For example, if the soil test showed a lack of potassium, then choose a mixed fertilizer with a higher third number, which represents potassium. Following the directions on the label of fertilizer, distribute the recommended application into the top 7 inches of soil. Using a spade, dig deeply and apply one-half the application. Then scatter the remaining one-half of the fertilizer on the top soil, and rake it in to mix evenly.

   Water Soluble Fertilizer

   •  

     After gardeners apply an application of granular fertilizer to the soil before planting, horticulturists with the University of Missouri advise adding a water-soluble fertilizer when transplanting seedlings. Normally, the condensed liquid fertilizer mixes with water at a rate of two tablespoons to one gallon of water. However, it is best to follow the specific directions on the fertilizer. Transplants require a high level of phosphorus to get established. The best fertilizers to use when planting new flowers or vegetable plants are those labeled as 10-52-17, 8-32-16, 12-24-12, 15-30-15 and 13-26-13. These liquid mixes are all high in phosphorus in comparison to nitrogen and potassium. Place 1 cup of the mixed fertilizer and water into the soil as you plant the seedling.

   Organic Matter

   •  

     Organic matter is a rich source of nutrients and conditions soils that are too sandy or clay heavy. On farms, gardeners frequently use animal manure for organic enrichment. However, most homeowners dislike the smell and opt for peatmoss or compost. Coarse types of peatmoss excel at soil conditioning and supply plant nutrition. Peatmoss is readily available in home garden centers. In addition, mature compost provides organic material. Compost is created from grass clipping, leaves, kitchen waste and plant refuse. Gardeners work organic matter into the top 2 inches of soil around plants each growing season. In addition, compost can serve as a mulch to deter weeds.

Read More

How Best to Fertilize an Established Flower Bed

Flower gardens may feature annual or perennial flowers, or specific groups such as roses, lilies or tulips. Whatever the flower, the garden requires fertilizer at least once a year to maintain good soil nutrition. Gardeners should go about fertilizing in long- and short-term manners.

1. Fertilize the Soil

   • Every flowerbeds require deep, quick-draining soil, which gives the flowers a loose foundation with good moisture retention and nutrition. Mix 2 to 3 inches of organic compost into the soil every spring.

   Spring Fertilizer

   • Fertilize established flowerbeds every spring to increase the nutrition in the soil and encourage spring and summer blooming, suggests the University of Purdue. Apply 2 to 3 lbs of 5-10-10 fertilizer per 100 square feet of planted ground.

   Application

   • Broadcast granules of slow-release granular fertilizer, or side dress their flowers by mixing the fertilizer into the top 1 inch of soil around each plant.

   Individual Plants

   • Plants such as roses require fertilization throughout the summer. Gardeners should research their flowers and feed them per their independent needs. All-America Rose Selections advises to stop feedings two months before the first frost. Late feedings result in late perennial growth that will die with the first frost.

   Mulch

   • Maintain a consistent mulch layer around flowers to keep the soil warm and moist. As this mulch layer breaks down, it acts as a consistent source of compost and adds nutrition to the soil. Mulch is an easy way to make sure that flowers have a constant source of moisture, warmth and nutrition during the growing season.

Read More

Best Fertilizers for a Flower Garden

1. • 

     The best fertilizers for a flower garden are not necessarily super strength, but are formulated to promote overall plant growth and flowering. A balanced flowering plant fertilizer feeds the leaves, roots, and stems, as well as the flowers. Promoting only flowering, without taking care of the plants' other needs, will result in abundant flowers on sickly plants. No one fertilizer can give a plant everything it needs, so combining several different methods to feed your flowering plants is a better choice.

   Chemical Granular Fertilizers

   • Chemical granular fertilizers are easy to apply and come in a variety of formulations. The nutrients are fast acting, so they are excellent for quick results. When choosing a formulation for flowering plants, be sure that the middle number (phosphorous) is greater than or equal to the other two numbers on the label, and that the fertilizer contains minor elements such as magnesium, manganese and calcium. Fertilizers with 10-10-10 and 6-6-6 are popular general purpose fertilizers. A granular fertilizer specifically made for flowering plants with have a higher middle number, such a 5-10-5 or 15-30-15.

   Chemical Liquid Fertilizers

   • Chemical liquid fertilizers can be applied directly to the soil around the plant, or as a foliar feed sprayed directly onto the plant. The most popular formulations for liquid fertilizers are 20-20-20 and 15-30-15. Specialized blooming plant formulations are available as well, which have very low first and third numbers, and very high middle numbers from 30 up to 50 or more. These "bloom busters" should be alternated with a more balanced fertilizer.

   Compost and Rotted Manure

   • While compost and manure do not provide high amounts of nutrients, the nutrients they do provide are more available to the plant, as they are from an organic source. The use of compost and manure also promotes microbial activity in the soil, which encourages healthy roots. Healthy roots take up nutrients better and in larger amounts.

   Fish Emulsion and Fish Meal

   • Fish emulsion is an excellent foliar feeder, because it is less likely to burn the plants. Fish emulsion and fish meal provide a readily available source of nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium as well as a good source of sulfur and trace elements.

   Bone Meal

   • Bone meal is made from crushed, coarsely ground bones and is high in phosphorous with a usual formulation of 4-12-0. It is commonly added to holes when planting flowering plants, since it does not move readily through the soil, and must be placed where it is easily available to the roots.

   Organic Granular Fertilizers

   • The advantage of granular organic fertilizers is that they are easier to apply than compost and manure. The formulations are usually 1-1-1 or 2-2-2, but they have the advantage of being rich in available micronutrients.

   Superphosphate

   • Superphosphate (0-20-0) is a super-concentrated form of phosphorous fertilizer produced by treating phosphate rock with sulfuric acid. It is largely used in commercial operations of cut flowers, but can be used in the home garden in small amounts to encourage blooming.

Read More

Rain Garden Ideas

 

Rain gardening is a little-known planting technique that allows homeowners to collect rainwater runoff into a landscaped area rather than allowing the water to escape--unfiltered and unused---into a storm drain. Rain gardens are not ponds; they are not intended to hold water but rather to capture, filter and return it safely and gently to the environment. Rain gardens reduce highly concentrated nutrients and silt normally found in storm water and control erosive action.

1. Where To Put A Rain Garden

   • Your rain garden should be no less than 10 feet from your house to avoid seepage into your home's foundation. Don't choose a location where water already pools---instead, select an area with a gentle slope to catch water from the downspout. A successful rain garden will eliminate standing water spots by distributing water more efficiently. Select a location that receives all-day sun, and do not site your garden over your septic tank.

   Size

   • Any size rain garden helps, but the larger the garden, the more plant varieties you will be able to incorporate. Typically, home rain gardens are between 100 and 300 square feet. Depth should be anywhere between 4 and 8 inches deep. Too deep and the water will sit too long; too shallow and the water will run out too quickly. The Minnesota Pollution Control Agency provides extensive tables to determine the proper size and depth for your final design.

   Soils

   • Always begin with a soil test. Your county agricultural extension office can help you determine the pH level of your soil and other considerations. These agencies can tell you the best way to improve your soil to improve drainage, increase absorption and reduce compaction. Based on your findings, you may need to add topsoil, sand or compost to achieve the best results.

   Plants

   • Start with small, healthy plants. Younger plants will acclimate more quickly and often outgrow larger plants placed at the same time. The best filtration is provided by plants with deep, fibrous roots. Native plants are always the best choice, but noninvasive cultivars can provide interest. For easy care, choose perennials, shrubs and trees. Annuals can be used for color, but they don't provide a great deal of filtration and will increase your maintenance time.
     A rain garden can provide shelter and food for wildlife. The native plant species that thrive in local rain gardens attract a variety of beneficial insects and birds. Monarda fistulosa and Monarda didyma are popular choices for rain gardens--their purplish-pink flowers draw bees and butterflies. Asclepias incarnata (swamp milkweed) is a magnet for monarch butterflies and hummingbirds. The bright red berries of Ilex verticillata (Winterberry holly) provide cover and food for songbirds.

   Maintenance

   • Rain garden maintenance is no different than any other garden. You will need to remove weeds and prune back perennials at the end of the season. Every year, a light mulch can be used to keep weeds in check. During the first two years, your garden will need regular watering. After plants are established, watering may be unnecessary unless drought is severe. Do not use fertilizers on your rain garden. Fertilizers will stimulate weed growth. Instead, add a light layer of compost in the spring.

Read More

How to Use Organic Herbicides

 

 

Organic gardening is a great way to be sure that the fruits and vegetables you are eating are safe and healthy. It's also a lot of fun. Using only organic products on your lawn, shrubs, trees, flowers and other landscaping is also a great way to protect the environment and reduce your (and your family's) exposure to harmful chemicals.One hurdle many organic gardeners dread facing though, is controlling weeds without the use of synthetic weed-killers and herbicides. Fortunately, however, there are a number of organic herbicides that work just as well, or even better than synthetic herbicides. Here's how to safely and properly use

Things You'll Need

• Gloves
• Sprayer
• Mask
• Organic herbicide

Instructions

1. Use Organic Herbicides

   • 1
     Research the type of organic herbicides available that meet your needs.Just as with synthetic herbicides, there are organic herbicides that kill all plants or only specific types of plants. If you are wanting to remove all plants, including those that are not weeds, from an area look for broad-spectrum organic herbicides. If you only want to remove the weeds, but don't want to harm nearby plants, look for organic herbicides that target only invasive weeds.Also consider whether you would benefit more from a pre-germination or post-germination organic weed killer. If you aren't overwhelmed with weeds yet, you may want to consider using a pre-germination organic herbicide to prevent more weeds and simply pull the existing weeds out by the root.
   • 2
     Check the weather forecast.When you use organic herbicides, they typically do not have properties that allow them to remain in place when it rains. Before applying, check the weather to determine whether rain is predicted the day of and the day following application. If possible, apply the organic herbicide when it is not expected to rain for a day or two after application.If you live in an area that receives regular rain, try to apply the organic herbicide when there will be the longest amount of time between rains.
   • 3
     Apply the organic herbicide according to package directions, using gloves, mask and safety precautions.Follow the directions carefully. You don't want to unintentionally hurt the plants you are trying to grow, or hurt yourself. Even though the herbicide is organic, handle it as carefully as a synthetic herbicide, some products can be irritating to the skin and dangerous if they come in direct contact with your eyes, nose or mouth. Just as you wouldn't want to hold an organic jalapeno pepper in your hand and then rub you eyes (even though it's a natural, organic product), you don't want to let organic herbicides harm you or your family.
   • 4
     Monitor the plants or weeds where you have you have applied the organic herbicide to determine the effect.If the plant does not die completely, you may need to make a second application. If the organic herbicide is not having an effect, you may need to try a different product.
   • 5
     Store in a cool, dry place and track the expiration date on your organic herbicide. Because they do not contain synthetic chemicals, many organic herbicides break down and lose effectiveness sooner than their man-made counterparts. They also do not stand up well to extreme temperatures and sudden temperature changes. Store them safely in a cool, dry place. If you find that your herbicide is not working as well as expected, or as well as it used to, check the expiration date, especially if it is left over from a previous season.

 

Read More

Using Natural Predators for Organic Gardens

Read More

Making Organic Compost & Humates for Organic Gardens

Read More

How to Make Organic Fertilizer Liquid

 

 

Liquid organic fertilizer is remarkably easy to make, and incredibly beneficial for your plants.Often referred to as “manure tea,” I find that it’s easier to use than solid manure products because it’s fed directly to the plant by watering with it. No spreading of material is needed for this method of fertilizing, and you don’t have to work it into the soil.

Things You'll Need

• Large empty trash can or barrel
• Garden hose
• Old pillow case that you don't need anymore
• 3-4 gallons cow manure, well rotted
• 1-gallon contailer
• Bottle of plain Ivory Dish Liquid
• 4 Cups of Epsom salts
• 5-gallon bucket
• Garden Spade
• Package of Herbal Cinnamon-Apple Tea (optional)

Instructions

1. Pick Your Poop

   • 1
     

     Well-cured cow manure can be obtained in a couple of different ways. You can purchase it by the bag at any garden supply center, hardware store, or home improvement center.
   • 2
      

     You can grab your trusty garden spade and a 5-gallon bucket, and head over to the residence of any cow, bull or steer that you are acquainted with. If you have not yet been formally introduced to the animal(s) you are considering, just knock on the front door of the nearest human residence, as this will probably be the home of the bovine’s owner. If you ask the owner politely, he or she will most likely be more than happy to allow you to head out into the back 40 and help yourself to all the cow poop you want.
   • 3
      

     If there are also horses in the pasture, make sure that you are not picking up their poop. There’s nothing wrong with it, and it’s also a beneficial fertilizer -- but doesn’t even run a close second to Bossy’s droppings.(For the uninitiated, cow plops are loose and kind of runny. Horse poops form solid, rounded balls a little bigger than a golf ball.)
   • 4
      

     Look for cow plops that have already dried and may even be really firm to the touch (yes, touch -- so wear gloves). If it’s fresh and wet, it will produce a solution that is much too strong and which will probably “burn” your plants.That’s why it’s important to use manure that is “well-cured,” or “aged.”

   Brew Your Poo

   • 1
      

     Begin by deciding where to place your trash can full of developing fertilizer, because it will need to spend several days in the spot that you choose.Although it doesn’t really matter whether you place the container in the shade or in a sunny locale, you might want to put it where it’s not going to be in your way.Once situated, fill the trash can with water to within about 6 inches from the top.
   • 2
      

     Now take that old pillow case that you hate, but that you didn’t really want to throw away, and dump 3-4 gallons of the cow manure into it.You don’t have to be scientifically precise here -- “sorta-kinda” will work. But if you’re questioning what “3-4 gallons” of manure looks like, just use any old 1-gallon container to help you approximate the measurement.Tie a loose knot in the pillow case close to the packaged poo -- yes, containing it like a sort of teabag.
   • 3
     Toss your bag of manure into the trash can full of water. Now let it “steep” for 3-4 days.(Don't cover the trash can because the fermenting of the manure will create lots of gases.)
   • 4
      

     When the time is “ripe” (pun intended), remove the bag of manure from the can of water. (Don’t discard the manure, though -- scatter it thinly throughout any area that you think might benefit from it. Or just toss it into the compost heap.)Now dump into the poopy water ½ cup of plain Ivory dish liquid and 4 cups of Epsom Salt. Stir the solution well -- your garden spade will serve nicely for this activity.

   Pour Your Poop

   • 1
      

     Dip several gallons of this solution into a 5-gallon bucket, and dilute it with water until it’s the color of weak tea.
   • 2
     Generally speaking, you can feed your shrubs with 1-2 pints of this diluted mixture for a small plant, and about 1-2 quarts for a large plant.
   • 3
     This stuff is great for your vegetable plants like, too. Again generally speaking, use about 2 pints for medium size plants, and about a pint each per small plant.
   • 4
     If you’re truly concerned about the proper amount of organic liquid fertilizer to use, just consult seed packets, gardening books or online sites to determine each plant’s requirements.
   • 5
      

     While your plants are savoring their organic fertilizer liquid tea, why not reward yourself for a job well done by brewing up a nice, relaxing cup of herbal cinnamon-apple tea?

 

Read More

How to Select Basic Garden Tools

 

 

You don't need to spend a lot to start a garden, but you do need some basic tools. You can get started for under $100 - less if you can find tools at yard sales or flea markets.

 

Things You'll Need

• Bow Rake
• Garden Shears
• Hoes
• Shovels
• Spading Forks
• Watering Cans

Instructions

• 1
  Select a spading fork as your first tool. Before you plant anything, you will need to open and improve the soil. A spading fork looks like a pitchfork but has a shorter handle and wider tines. It is used to dig down into hard soil and break up the ground.
• 2
  Next, choose a hoe. A hoe is useful for weeding and cultivating the surface of the soil to allow for penetration of nutrients and water.
• 3
  Choose a watering can. Long nozzles allow the water to come out at a very gentle flow rate and are useful for reaching across long distances. Select a watering can that has a detachable spray head - this type of watering can is perfect for watering young seedlings.
• 4
  Select a round-ended shovel for larger digging projects, such as planting shrubs and trees.
• 5
  Buy a good bow rake, which has short tines on one side attached to a metal frame or 'bow.' It's used for leveling the soil after it has been turned and prior to planting, or for removing large clods of earth or rocks from the soil. You can also turn a bow rake over and use the flat side to smooth soil in preparation for planting.
• 6
  Select a pair of garden shears that fits comfortably in your hand. Shears, sometimes called clippers, are used for pruning, shaping and removing foliage or branches. Don't buy the most expensive shears until you decide you like gardening.

Read More

Flower Gardening Basics

1. • Planting flowers can be a relaxing and satisfying hobby. Jupiterimages/Comstock/Getty Images

     Flower gardening will add color to your yard, garden, balcony or window. The different requirements of various flower plants can make it seem overwhelming at first, but knowing the features of your planned flower garden's location and choosing flowers that are easy to take care of will help you get started.

   Light Requirements

   • Plants require different amounts of shade, ranging from full sun to very dense shade lacking even reflected or indirect light. Most plant nurseries will provide you with information about the light requirements of the plants you are buying; if you are unsure about what the terminology means and whether a certain plant would be suitable, describe your planned garden location to the nursery staff.

   Watering

   • Much like light conditions, water requirements differ from plant to plant. Flowers generally require about one inch of water per week, states Dennis Patton of Kansas State University. Although any required water should be provided naturally, you may have to supplement rainfall by watering. Soaking the soil thoroughly and watering infrequently, about one or two times per week, helps your plants to develop a strong root system; light, frequent applications encourage shallow rooting and can weaken or kill plants. The best time to water is in the morning or early afternoon; higher afternoon temperatures will waste water due to evaporation, while watering in the evening or at night can cause water to stagnate and increase the likelihood of disease.

   Soil

   • Soil provides your plants with the nutrients it needs to grow healthy and strong. A soil test is the best way to learn more about the type of soil in your garden and what type of fertilizer, if any, it needs. Prepare soil for planting by removing weeds, sod, trash and rocks; add compost yearly to increase the nutrient content. Avoid compacting your soil. Compacted soil is harder for roots to penetrate and may lead to shallow root growth and weaker plants. Layer your soil with 2 to 3 inches of natural mulch to increase water retention, moderate soil temperature and prevent the growth of weeds.

   Selecting Flowers

   • Select flower plants for your garden based on the average, maximum and minimum annual temperatures in your area. Flowers planted in conditions that do not match the optimal ones for the species will be subject to additional stress and may not grow as well as you would hope. Select plants with a different blooming period to have flowers available throughout the year.
     You should also consider the plants' life cycle. Annual plants are easy to take care of but will complete their entire life cycles in one year, and you must then buy them again. Biennial plants require more care and patience, and will provide no flowers for the first year, as they require two full growing seasons to complete their life cycle. Perennial plants are relatively hardy and usually require only minimal care.

Read More

Herb & Vegetable Gardening Basics

Novice gardeners can enjoy healthy gardens that produce quality vegetables and herbs when they take the time to understand herb and vegetable gardening basics. A successful garden begins with the right location, healthy soil and appropriate garden layout and by choosing the right combination of plants to grow.

1. Location

   • Choose an area that receives at least six to eight hours of full sunlight. Avoid choosing a location near trees or bushes; they have far-reaching roots that take nutrients and water required by the herb and vegetable garden. Purchase a soil pH-level testing kit and test the soil in the garden location. Testing kits are available for purchase at most stores that have a gardening section. Herb and vegetable plants grow best in soil with pH levels ranging from 6.0 to 8.0. Amend soil with ground limestone to raise low pH and with elemental sulfur, composted leaves or leaf mold to lower pH.
     Herbs and vegetables require fertile, well-drained soil. Amend poorly draining soil with generous amounts of rich organic matter such as compost or well-rotted manure. Mix sand into heavy clay soil to improve drainage. Mix organic matter into sandy soils to improve moisture retention. Add mulch between rows of plants to help retain moisture in the soil and control weeds.

   Method

   • An important aspect of herb and vegetable gardening basics is understanding how to structure and plan a garden. With vertical gardening, use trellises to train garden plants to climb rather than sprawl across the ground. Vertical gardening is effective when space is limited. Planting herbs or slow-growing plants between fast-growing plants saves space. This method is called "intercropping." With intercropping, fast-growing plants are harvested before the slower-growing plants require more area. Most herbs perform well planted between vegetables.
     Succession planting is accomplished by planting different crops in the same spot according to season. Plant, harvest and remove cool-weather crops during the spring and early summer. Replace them with fast-growing, heat-loving crops. After harvesting the heat-loving plants, plant another cool-weather crop. Growing spinach in the spring, green beans in the summer and spinach again in the fall is an example of succession planting.

   Plants

   • Understanding herb and vegetable gardening basics assists the novice gardener in choosing plants. Choose plants based on a realistic analysis of the amount of sunlight they will receive, soil type, and space available. Some herb and vegetable plants prefer to have full sun continuously, while others wilt under the afternoon sun. Choose plants that can be trained to climb (indeterminate tomatoes) over bushy plants (determinate tomatoes) when space is limited. Low-growing herbs, such as oregano, act as living mulch in a cramped garden.
     Herbs can be annuals, biennials and perennials. Annuals require planting every year, biennials every two years; perennials return every year. Mark biennial and perennial herb locations to avoid disturbing them the following spring when replanting the garden. Grow plants with similar watering and feeding needs together.

Read More

How to Care For Bamboo Plant

 

 

Bamboo plants are relatively low-maintenance, needing little personal care. After purchasing a healthy plant, follow the steps below to maintain it.

Things You'll Need

• Aquarium plant food
• Water

Instructions

• 1
  Water the bamboo plant with filtered water or rain water to avoid the chemicals in tap water. For an even healthier plant, use soiled water from a fish tank or bowl.
• 2
  Keep the water level in the container high. It should never be less than half-filled. The roots of the plants must be completely submerged.
• 3
  Empty the water, and refill about once a week.
• 4
  Allow the bamboo plants indirect light at a moderate level. Bamboo grows in thick, shady forests. Too much light will kill the plant. The plant will turn yellow if it is too dry.
• 5
  Feed the bamboo plant a few drops of aquarium plant food about once a month. Do this by changing the water.
• 6
  If the bamboo plant is kept in a soil pot instead of water, make sure the soil is constantly damp, but not over soaked. If the top inch of soil is dry then it's time to water.

Read More